The terroir which is the combination of the climate, water, soil and temperature or sunshine has a substantial effect on the wine produced in the old world regions. The minerality in the soil gives you that very profound taste in the wine, the chalkiness which gives the wine its acidic essence etc. is completely due to the soil condition. The cold breeze that caresses the grape during its growing stages is also due to the effect of the climate. The concept of terroir came into being due to the centuries of trial and error methods that defined wine making in old school areas and over time certain areas have come to be associated with certain grape varietal, wine style, and even bottle shape. The terroir in such regions create an immense variation in the final product. The old world wines over time claimed the intellectual right over the concept of terroir and its decisive influence on winemaking. But today as you can see more and more new world wine has also become terroir driven. What the worlds wine regions is losing out here is the addition of one more powerful component which contributes in creating exclusive wines even if they fall in the same terroir and they follow the same production technique - the Wine Maker himself.
The roots of this post carry the reference to my earlier work where I spoke about the complex world of wines where I mentioned that the terroir also includes the wine maker himself. I was criticized by saying the winemaker can never be a part of the terroir. My beloved readers, technically you are right. He cannot be, but my perception is that the wine maker is he/she who does justice to what nature blesses him or her. The wine maker is skilled in creating the perfect blend over and over again with the same distinctive taste, aromas and flavors in every bottle year after year after year. The wine maker is like the Dumbledore of the vineyard, the most powerful wizard who can do magic with varietal growing in a vineyard. Jokes apart, he is the one skilled technician who knows the science, who knows the technology and who knows the minutest aspect of growing the grapes, harvesting the grapes and finally fermenting and blending it to create that same magic in a million bottles. I believe a wine maker’s status is equivalent to any brilliant scientist. They even have a special name unto themselves in big wineries- oenologists. The winemaker has to be there throughout coordinating people working in that vineyard or the very many vineyards the house has, supervise every step in production. He also has a major say in the marketing of the bottles, future planting programs, and what new steps or changes has to be done for the next harvest or the next season. And not to forget difficult vintages would mean extra skills from the wine maker’s part to harness the best possible wine from a poor harvest. And hence it’s rightly put that a great terroir minus the skills of a wine maker is like an orchestra minus the conductor.
I must say I was a little unlucky that I missed the opportunity to meet Paul Pontallier, the winemaker, Chateau Margaux as I was on leave and I was munching on my mom’s special delicacies (for which I was indeed lucky). But my colleagues who got to meet him shared with me that he had to spend a decent amount of time in laboratories tasting and re-tasting the blends created so that he can figure out which will make that perfect blend and unique taste of Chateau Marguaux wine bottle. So my statement that the wine maker is also a scientist holds major value here, I believe. Don’t forget the wine maker’s role does not end after the wine is bottled and is ready for sale, that’s just the beginning. His skill in making the wine ends in the vineyard but the major skill required for a wine maker is the interpersonal and communication skills which should be as good as any marketer. He should be able to speak about his wine and tell how distinct it is from others. Most of the winemaker today in the old world regions are busy learning languages like Mandarin ,Japanese and Korean as these places have become massive markets for the old world wines especially Bordeaux and Burgundian wines. Above all this the most important requirement a wine maker should possess is experience.
You cannot make a good finished product if you don’t have the decent raw materials to produce it. That is a universal fact. The same rule applies for the world of wines. If you don’t have the good raw material because of unfavorable terroir or some other reason, don’t forget that the wine maker has the skill , the science, the technology and experience to yet create the best blend of the season. “A great wine is crafted in the vineyard, not in the cellar” says Henry Jayer who is credited with introducing incredible innovations with Burgundian wine making. He believed low yields are the foundation of truly great wines. He pioneered the now universal idea that wine making begins in the vineyard. He has experienced the process of extreme wine making. The terroir and the harvest cannot always be in your favour but the winemakers know what exactly has to be done. Bruno De Lambert, winemaker and owner, Chateau de Sales in Pomerol which is the largest estate of Pomerol explains the role of a wine maker in a very catchy way. He says,” The Vine is the medium that joins the sky and the earth - the two greatest elements of terroir - in holy matrimony. The wine maker is the priest who solemnizes the marriage!
So I believe I have answered your question on how the wine maker becomes evidently the most important part of the terroir. And I am sure the next time you pick up a bottle of wine you will definitely remember that a lot of effort from the wine maker has gone into making the 5 glasses of wine that you enjoy over dinner.
Cheers
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